Ramadan spurs saudi nightlife

Before I say anything, I must first profess that what you read are purely my personal opinions and views. Being strictly non-Muslim and non-Saudi, what I see around me could be construed by me in a different sense from those within the community. I am not privy to the mechanisms behind Ramadan which is so holy in Islam. Wat I say is based on external observation.

Having seen Ramadan in Singapore, I grew up thinking Ramadan does not change life. But in Saudi, Ramadan changes life in ways that even the non-Muslims are affected. I guess this change that everyone in the country sees, regardless of religion, shows how the country places Islam above everything else. Perhaps, to a Saudi, this holy month reaps benefits. However, to any expat residents, there seldom is any positive indicator during the holy month of Ramadan.

Yes, Ramadan is observed in every country with a Muslim population. However, I doubt it is so strictly observed or enforced as it is in Saudi Arabia. Perhaps, there is reason to do so given that Saudi Arabia is indeed the home of "The Two Holy Mosques" at Mecca and Medina. I wonder what the Holy hindu place, Varanasi, would be like.

As a Hindu living in Riyadh, I am clearly diassociating myself from the various aspects of Ramadan. I know what these aspects are, what they mean to the Muslims and how one goes about fulfilling their obligations during this holy month. But to me, this is the month where many non-Muslims choose to go on their travels. And I see no reason why they wouldn't want to. Even we are days away from that grand trip.

During the month of Ramadan, people's lifestyles are radically changed in my eyes. Where business/commerce is concerned, a slowdown kicks in. Due to the fast, there is a legal requirement that employees are made to work only 6 hours. Of course, this is beneficial to us too coz V gets to come home early, albeit us having to bear with a late lunch (at around 3-4pm). But honestly, we don't mind it if he had such working hours everyday. The evening just seems longer with more opportunites to do what we want to, together. During Ramadan, the streets are practically dead, with most shops closed for business till after the prayers at dusk. Yesterday being a wkend, we headed out to a mall only to find that their second shift started at 9pm..with them winding down at 2am. The first shift was 9.30am to 4.30pm. Clearly, the afternoon siesta and anticipation of breaking fast cause a standstill.

Some shops prefer to remain closed during the day until around 4pm. So effectively, each shop , its own rules. And you will only know wen you arrive at the shop. Once the fast is broken, Saudis prefer to spend the evening shopping like there's no tomorrow. Shopping malls apparently heave and traffic is bad. Rember, shopping is the only thing to do here in Saudi. So, bad traffic or not, crowded malls or not, we will still head out full on.

Empty parking lot in Granada mall. Unusual on a weekend nite.

I hear that during Ramadan, muttawas (religious police) are out in full force. I havent ventured out in the night much since I've been out of Riyadh for a while but would definitely like to know if this is true.

Few more days to go, and I will be out of Riyadh again, only to return after Ramadan. Then, I can safely say, that one yr of Ramadan for me is over!

Till then.

Lots of love

Marhaba

Its gruelling summer in the kingdom for the last few months and many people have set off elsewhere to escape the heat. Likewise, I left the kingdom mid June for my trip to India, Singapore and Phuket. After a month of being away, it was good to be back to home, where hubby dearest is. He was managing for slightly short of a month alone in the kingdom. Not that I have not left him behind on my trips back home.. but this is somehow different. The social life we have here is very minimal and the only source of entertainment being the tv.

I returned to a more quiet than usual compound with many people still away on their summer breaks. The heat is still gruelling but I think I have gotten used to it. Anyway, I avoid stepping out in the afternoon for fear of melting under my abaya. What I did get this time was an air humidifier which would aid some humidity and reduce our nose bleed. The air here is so dry, its unbelievable.

Its coming to 5 months since I've come to Riyadh and I don't think there is much to complain of. I have learnt to take the idiosyncracies of this countries in good spirit, sometimes even laughing over certain things. We've travelled a little around the region, with the best being Syria.

We had been to Istanbul, Dubai and Syria over the last 5 months and each city/country has been nothing short of spectacular. It has opened my eyes to various ways of lives even within the Muslim community. Makes me wonder sometimes why Saudi Arabia can't learn a thing or 2 from its neighbours. Anyway, the stay here is enriching as it exposes to a way of life that is vastly different from what the rest of the world is exposed to.

Right now, sales are on. Every mall/shop is boasting massives reduction in prices. I have tried to spend my wkends shopping but to no avail. I am finding it highly inconvenient to buy garments without being able to try them on. Of course, I could buy them, get home, try them on, and return for something else. But why should I buy something for the sake of it? I have yet to find a way out of this. Perhaps I should begin asking for changing rooms within the room and demand a refund if the outfit doesn't fit.

As I type this, I am waiting for the husband to get home to start playing the newly acquired wii.

Till I get more stories to share, adios

Day 3- Riyadh

I am still thinking about Day 1 in Riyadh where I had the great displeasure of bumping into a Muttawa. A Muttawa is the name given for the government-authorized or -recognized religious police of Saudi Arabia. They belong to the "Commission for the Promotion of Virtue and Prevention of Vices." Often accompanied by a police escort, they have the power to arrest unrelated males and females caught socializing, anyone engaged in homosexual behavior or prostitution; to enforce Islamic dress-codes, and store closures during the prayer time. They also enforce Muslim dietary laws, disallow the consumption or sale of alcohol and pork. These guys are hardly seen according to people here. In fact, V, in his two months in Riyadh had not come across one.

So, we were at Euromarche Supermarket that day getting stuff for the home. A guy comes along escorted by a police man shouting at me, along with several women who hadn't covered their heads to cover head. It was frightening...his demeanour..plus whoever thought I would bump into 1 just hours after landing in Riyadh.

Back to today..headed to the gym and found it really pathetic. I mean a gym has to look fully equipped and presentable. This one...was really sad. Might have to look around for gyms outside of the compound.

I am raring to go check out the glitzy glamorous malls here. Infrastructure is awesome and there are loads of western restaurants. Waiting for the weekend for all of this.

Adios

Day 2- Riyadh

Day 2 in Riyadh was uneventful. Stayed home for most bits doing some studying, freelance work and unpacking. My system is a wreck with the time difference and all. Not that its a huge time difference. But its me..When am I not sleepy?

Had a wadrobe malfunction and laughed my head out. Before stepping out, I threw my abaya over my clothes only to realise much later when I was in a shop that I had worn in inside out. I mean, thats the only thing people see of your body and I got it ALL WRONG! Anyway, covered the boo boo up with a shawl so that no seam would show.

Cooked dinner at home with minimum utensils.. Pretty satisfying. I must say I feel like a new bride setting up a home all over again.

Adios

Here I come, Riyadh

After 2 months of waiting for the immigration processes to be completed, I finally got my visa to Saudi Arabia 3 days before I had planned to join V in Riyadh. So there I was in the flight making my maiden journey to Saudi Arabia with lots of anxiety and anticipation. By the time I had got onto the flight, I was already missing my family back home. The flight to Riyadh from Singapore is about 10 hours with an hour transit in Dubai. I was half-minded about getting off at Dubai for 40min just to see what the airport looked like. But having decided against it, I stayed put while thinking what to expect once I land in Riyadh International Airport.

I reached Riyadh at about 11.15pm (Singapore time) and as soon as I disembarked I was relieved to see V waiting for me. A staff promptly took my passport n whisked us past immigration, collected my nine bags and we were soon on our way to a place called home. Home is a 2 storeyed villa with ample space for us to dance, hop and skip if we so wished. The house is huge but that means more place to keep my things :) Shortly after arriving home, I put on my abaya to head out for dinner and supermarket shopping thereafter. While it did seem odd to wear the robe over my clothes, I was genuinely relieved that at least my head and face were visible. Scores and scores of women in abayas and faces covered and men in their traditional Saudi outfits soon became commonsight.

1st meal in Riyadh had to be Indian and thereafter we headed to Euromarche, a HUGE supermarket. After spending a bomb there, we headed home. I was off to bed in anticipation of Day 2 in Riyadh.

So long, Kolkata

Its been a while..I know..yet again since my last post. I have been plain lazy to update it although I keep telling myself I will pen down interesting events in my life. Since September passed, life continued to be exciting. October, the puja season of Kolkata, saw lots of public holidays. We of course took that opportunity to head off somewhere for a good break. And we did starting with Goa. Goa was awesome especially since we stayed in a quiet stretch, in a hotel with a private beach. Thereafter, we headed to Bali for an absolutely romantic villa stay. Bali was spectacular, and turned out to be one of the most relaxing holidays I've had. Right after Bali we headed back home to Kolkata, to await the arrival of my cousin from Singapore. Yes, we DID have visitors to Kolkata while we were there. Soon after she arrived, we left for the eastern hills, namely Pelling, Kalimpong and Kurseong. Not very developed infrastructure wise, the hills had lots to offer. Tranquility, splendid mountainous (snow-clad) scenery, cold weather and lovely food. Having spent about 3 days there, we headed back to Kolkata where my cousin and I embarked on our shopping cum eating spree. Each day saw us going out and coming back with loads of bags. How I love shopping in India!

November was a quiet month with not much activities till 23rd November. On 23rd November, we heard of our posting. As much as we were told and were looking forward to a posting out of the West Asia and Africa region, we were being posted to Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. Then, it was a nightmare coming true. We spent a good number of days deciding if we should take up the new posting offer or be subjected to the risk of being sent back to Singapore. Once one is initiated into a posting lifestyle, you get used to a certain level of comfort which is unmatched if you return to Singapore. Plus, we had nothing to lose spending 2 years in Saudi Arabia, despite all the cultural restrictions and curtailing of freedom for women. I was gungho about the move and told V to take up the offer without looking back once I was convinced I could live the next couple of years in a black garb. I know I will lose my identity there but I am who I am. Nothing and no place will change that. At least, I can leave Saudi Arabia with a stamp from the immigration and a story to tell my children and grandchildren. So 10th Jan was to be our last day in Calcutta.

Soon after we heard of our move and decided on it, we headed to Delhi where V's best friends are and spent the weekend at a palace cum hotel near Jaipur, Rajasthan. Xmas was spent in Singapore with my cousins who had come from Bombay and New year was spent in Bangalore with in laws and more family. Days passed so quickly thereafter with springcleaning and packing up in Kolkata. Kolkata will always have a special place in our hearts.. For one, we moved there just 2 months after our wedding. So its as good as being called THE place where we took our initial steps as man and wife. Kolkata also has a special place in our hearts because of the love and warmth we have received from people around us. Never did we think we would settle down so fast and so well in an unknown territory with an unknown language. V's office colleagues have showered us with so much affection that we hold close to our hearts. Thirdly, Kolkata has awesome cuisine which I can safely say no other Indian city can match up to; right from the street food which my tummy is finally acclimatised to and to the higher end restaurants. Thanks Kolkata for increasing our waistlines! While we bade goodbye to Kolkata, the city which hosted us well for 1 year and 7 months, we made a silent promise that we would return to Kolkata some day and anticipation of what our new destination would be like.

During our stint in Kolkata, I have learnt lots; both on a personal level and professional level. As much as India is a developing nation, the experience I have gained living in such a nation has taught me valuable lessons. In a system with disorder, things still work. The human touch exists despite the wide expanse of each city. I have learnt to become patient with certain things and not expect the speedy service we Singaporeans are used to. I have learnt to experience things the hard way, even if it means something as simple as eating in a street stall and falling ill the next day, even if it means not knowing Bengali and having to approach Principals for work-relates reasons. At least, at the end of this stint, I havent wasted my life. I have earned myself a teaching certificate, some experience in a teacher training organisation and am almost reaching the end of my montessori course.

I hope to do more studying in KSA (kingdom of Saudi Arabia) as my application for MA in TEYL is almost complete. I hope to travel within the West Asia region, particularly Middle East and Egypt while in KSA. And most importantly, I hope to spend more amazing days with my best friend ,V, as we embark on our third year of marital union in a couple of months. How time flies!

Adios

This is home, truly....

Its now a year and 1 month and counting since I moved to Kolkata. It has been a rollar coaster experience I must say. I had my fair share of medical concerns like contracting something as unpronounceable as amebiosis and streptococcus, etc. True, you can live life here royally with a strong currency to your advantage, there are many more things out there which have made me realise Singapore's worth, which have made me realise how we in Singapore have taken so many things for granted. We only know what we are missing when we get the exact opposite elsewhere.

I am not saying i hate or even dislike India. In fact, in all honesty, India is a beautiful country, with lovely food, history and culture. I love being in India each time I visit. Even in Kolkata, food is awesome, the city has a colonial look left behind by the British legacy, shopping is cheap and great. More importantly, have managed to forge friendship with many here (though they are colleagues, both V's and mine). But I guess after all, I am still the spoilt Singaporean. No wait..I take back what I said. I am not spoilt. Its basic human right to expect top quality standards of living. My experience in Kolkata has opened my eyes to various issues. To issues that will stop me from taking the things we have in Singapore for granted.

Education
Being in the education industry here in Kolkata, I have been fortunate enough to visit schools in Kolkata as part of my work. Whether I have been fortunate in other aspects of my work deserves a posting of its own and I wont even begin to whine. So, ya at these schools, you instantly get an idea of the studying environment of the students. The majority of these schools are far from what you get back home in Singapore. I wish I had a picture to explain it all. Anywhere between 40-60 students squeeze in one classroom which inevitably has either broken, dusty wooden benches or rusty metal ones. The power goes off at times. Lessons continue in the sweltering heat, yet students always have a smile on their faces, and never fail to greet anyone who passes. Even if you are not a teacher in that sch! Yet. the children as well as parents seem contented with the environment they are in. In Singapore, each student is entitled to his own table and chair, clean classrooms, whiteboards, a huge field to play in, and technology to make education a high tech process. How blessed we were or our school kids are to have the best of facilities. But are we thankful for all that we have? No! Parents are constantly complaining and students using that to their advantage to gripe at the slightest discomfort. All having said, nothing beats the experience of having visited non-English medium schools like Bengali/Hindi medium schools. The kids in such schools learn English from Class 5 which is equivalent to our Primary 5 and continue learning it till Class 12. How the kids struggle to learn, speak and write English is a painful sight. English is taught in Bengali and kids literally struggle to speak the language. So much for education!
Getting things done
Well, for months together, I had a problem with my landline. Try as I might, I was not able to make outgoing call and receive incoming calls. Tried various avenues to make a complaint till I got through a guy who said "pleese come down to office with problem". I cursed and swore about the sheer inefficiency especially since I was so used to getting my problems solved over the phone or internet. To begin with, I don't recall having any problems at all with my landline, internet or even mobile phone connection. One fine day, the phone works. God knows how! Then, we were both having network/connection problems with our mobile phones. Wen on a call, we had to literally walk around the entire house just to find a spot with good connectivity. We lived with the problem for a year till I decided enough was enough. Called up the mobile phone service provider to complain abt the problem. After a few days of waiting and visits by engineers, the problem was rectified. So now we have a connectivity that allows us to speak even a remote corner of the house. We constantly have problems of toilet bowl leaks, light fuse, hard water, cable TV box breakdowns (due to lightning according to cable guys). Things do happen here but they just take time. This is probably how people get by. By waiting endlessly for people to look into your problems. Back home, there is hardly reason to complain. Things hardly go awry and even if they do, repair or rectification is almost immediate.

Despite coming back home often, there are still many things that I miss back in Singapore. FRIENDS. Despite chat technology, there is nothing like having friends around to meet during weekends or even for a quick dinner after work. I miss the food so much that Prima mixes seem heavenly. Chilli padis, hokkien mee, mee goreng, carrot cake, chicken cutlet, fish n chips, and many more. I have resorted to freeze packing some of these- tried with hokkien mee and fried rice. And I make sure I have my constant supply of chilli padis and POST cereals. I missed the National Day Parade for the 1st time in my life. I had always taken the parade for granted, and this time I saw to it I wore my Singapore tshirt, albeit a little late. Wore it on India's independence day! I miss the peace and quiet on the roads, where there is no noise, where people dont jostle when all you intend to take is a leisurely stroll. Traffic is systematic, roads top quality, although some major highways in India are as good.

Nonetheless, I am enjoying India. I love the warmth and solidarity that people have despite clashes, riots, blasts and strikes. I love the food which is as authentic as it gets. I love the shopping, especially the Indian wear which is comparatively cheap! I love the street food! I love the home i am in. These and much more..I am pretty sure I will miss this experience once we get transferred out. Whenever that would be....

So long......