Friday, September 4, 2009

Ramadan spurs saudi nightlife

Before I say anything, I must first profess that what you read are purely my personal opinions and views. Being strictly non-Muslim and non-Saudi, what I see around me could be construed by me in a different sense from those within the community. I am not privy to the mechanisms behind Ramadan which is so holy in Islam. Wat I say is based on external observation.

Having seen Ramadan in Singapore, I grew up thinking Ramadan does not change life. But in Saudi, Ramadan changes life in ways that even the non-Muslims are affected. I guess this change that everyone in the country sees, regardless of religion, shows how the country places Islam above everything else. Perhaps, to a Saudi, this holy month reaps benefits. However, to any expat residents, there seldom is any positive indicator during the holy month of Ramadan.

Yes, Ramadan is observed in every country with a Muslim population. However, I doubt it is so strictly observed or enforced as it is in Saudi Arabia. Perhaps, there is reason to do so given that Saudi Arabia is indeed the home of "The Two Holy Mosques" at Mecca and Medina. I wonder what the Holy hindu place, Varanasi, would be like.

As a Hindu living in Riyadh, I am clearly diassociating myself from the various aspects of Ramadan. I know what these aspects are, what they mean to the Muslims and how one goes about fulfilling their obligations during this holy month. But to me, this is the month where many non-Muslims choose to go on their travels. And I see no reason why they wouldn't want to. Even we are days away from that grand trip.

During the month of Ramadan, people's lifestyles are radically changed in my eyes. Where business/commerce is concerned, a slowdown kicks in. Due to the fast, there is a legal requirement that employees are made to work only 6 hours. Of course, this is beneficial to us too coz V gets to come home early, albeit us having to bear with a late lunch (at around 3-4pm). But honestly, we don't mind it if he had such working hours everyday. The evening just seems longer with more opportunites to do what we want to, together. During Ramadan, the streets are practically dead, with most shops closed for business till after the prayers at dusk. Yesterday being a wkend, we headed out to a mall only to find that their second shift started at 9pm..with them winding down at 2am. The first shift was 9.30am to 4.30pm. Clearly, the afternoon siesta and anticipation of breaking fast cause a standstill.

Some shops prefer to remain closed during the day until around 4pm. So effectively, each shop , its own rules. And you will only know wen you arrive at the shop. Once the fast is broken, Saudis prefer to spend the evening shopping like there's no tomorrow. Shopping malls apparently heave and traffic is bad. Rember, shopping is the only thing to do here in Saudi. So, bad traffic or not, crowded malls or not, we will still head out full on.

Empty parking lot in Granada mall. Unusual on a weekend nite.

I hear that during Ramadan, muttawas (religious police) are out in full force. I havent ventured out in the night much since I've been out of Riyadh for a while but would definitely like to know if this is true.

Few more days to go, and I will be out of Riyadh again, only to return after Ramadan. Then, I can safely say, that one yr of Ramadan for me is over!

Till then.

Lots of love

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